From London, New York, Milan to Paris, we focus on the in colour palettes, with the biggest commercial potential for spring/summer 2015.
London (pictured above)
Designers in London continued Spring 2014’s love affair with head to toe whites, which formed Amanda Wakeley’s entire collection and were at Joseph, Temperley London and Pringle of Scotland. Although a crisp and sporty palette, it was a relief to see color begin to soak through in the cyans, cornflowers and cerulean blues at Jonathan Saunders, Christopher Kane and Matthew Williamson. Bold reds, so popular in New York, won votes too - from Topshop Unique, Preen and Antonio Berardi - but pinks were ahead in the polls with support in bubblegum tones from Christopher Raeburn, coral at Markus Lupfer and hot magenta at Issa. Perhaps the biggest shake up in color from London is the use of Autumnal shades of ochre and sienna from J.W. Anderson, Antipodium and Jasper Conran as well as maroons, olives and khaki. Seasonal they may not be, but those in search of new directions will find them here.
Color for SS15 is exciting: the poster paint shades of red, yellow, blue and green felt positively raucous compared to the mute pastels of the past summer season. The all-over whites we’ve been seeing for two seasons are returned, most notably at Michael Kors, 3.1 Phillip Lim and Victoria Beckham, but they felt freshest when paired with slices of sunshine yellow, truest red, high energy blues and grassy green. The bolder still took these colors in their own right: a divine pair of billowing green pants at Delpozo, a fringed Yves Klein knit at Milly, Kors’ radiant yellow buckled smock and a traffic-stopping tomato skater dress at DKNY. The graphic combo of black and white attracted a big following: Narciso Rodergiuez, Opening Ceremony, Versus, Rodarte…we could go on, but take our word, it’s a trend.
While many shows paraded a neutral color palette, the offering was far from dull - instead designers focused on fluid lines, and texture.
There were nude tones in the innocent bohemian at Alberta Ferretti, a focus on lightness at Emporio Armani, all white outfits at Francesco Scognamiglio and layered cream, stone and mushroom at Marni. Color was present elsewhere of course, in the striking oranges and tangerines at Emilio Pucci, Gucci and Fausto Puglisi and the limoncello hues at Philipp Plein, Moschino and Missoni. Pinks too were popular; bubblegum at Angelos Bratis, Mattel licensed at Moschino, dusky hued at Giamba and pastel head to toe pink at Versace.
Alarming red, often popular in Milan, was present for SS15 too, most traffic-stopping at Iceberg, Pucci and Les Copains. For the less bold, thankfully the popular blue palette seen in New York and London exists here too. A shiny navy worked well paired with red at Antonio Marras, there were soft pastels and cornflowers at Ermanno Scervino and a riot of Yves Klein at Emporio Armani.
For many in Paris, the lack of color was most notable. There were all whites at Christophe Lemaire, Christian Dior, Issey Miyake, Chloé, Akris and Stella McCartney. This was gentle, virginal and fresh. Others ramped up the graphicism with their monochrome pairings - Givenchy’s stripes, Balenciaga’s sporty simplicity and Anthony Vaccarello’s text prints included.
Thankfully, Paris’s designers were not all purists and color seeped into the week via the olive green and khaki at Acne, Sonia Rykiel, Sacai and Celine and the traffic-stopping reds at Aganovich, Commes Des Garcon, Mugler and Nina Ricci. There was pink - bright at Olympia Le Tan, soft at Loewe and Chanel and salmon-toned at Balenciaga and Cedric Charlier. Navy had impact for Lanvin's sea-journey story, and in the sports buzz at Viktor & Rolf. For the boldest of customers were the sunshine yellows at Issey Miyake and Akris, as well as the cyan hits from Emanuel Ungaro, Nina Ricci and Loewe.
Related Tags:Milan to Paris, colour palettes, biggest commercial potential, Designers in London